Hey Folks:

Fennel take so long to grow.  This one is about a month old, still two inches or so in diameter.

It should be ready in about another forty days.

Fennel is a great pairing with fish, and thick wedges of it are a fine addition to a kabob.

Eaten raw, it makes a tasty salad with apple, almonds or sunflower seeds, and a small quantity of sweet onion (I recommend Cipollini).  Dress with lemon and a spot of olive oil and serve slightly chilled.

Here is another surprise out of the rock garden...self seeded calendula.  I know theey are self seeded as the originals were planted on the other side of the rocks, which are now buried under the clover.

And one more surprise.

The farm gate store is now "open' for non- customers.

I have a surplus of scapes.

See the "farm gate store" page for details, forward the info to friends and family.








I'm still tweaking the harvest routine to make packing the delivery quicker.  Each year gets a little more complex, and changes need to be made to keep the process efficient.

I mentioned in the previous post that there was a curious absence of cucumber beetles and cabbage moths.  They started to arrive this week, I assume that they were knocked back by the frost in May.

These insects are only a problem when the plants are young and vulnerable.  After the crops are established, they tend to outgrow any damage.

I identified the red frog (pictured in the previous post).  It is a wood frog, probably travelling from one hedgerow to another and eating terrestrial insects along the way.  This is a new species for the farm (and me - I've never seen one before in the many hours of hiking and camping I have accomplished).  Hopefully, I'll find a salamander at Whitsend next - we came across these regularly at Elmtree Farm.

The only other nature note are the fledgling birds being guided into the field by their parents.  The sparrows like to sit up on the tomato stakes and watch for insects on the ground or in the foliage.  Every time I seed another bed, the crows come to check it out (hoping for corn or forage oats I suspect).

I had observed in past years that the summer solstice brings a change in the weeds and grasses - leaf growth slows down and roots and seed heads start forming very quickly.

During the last week or so before the solstice, I mow the paths as much as possible to gather up the leafy material for the compost.  This material is known as 'green manure'.

Mowing the paths is half the task.  To make room for the new compost, the older compost windrows have to be turned to make way.  It is a dance, one activity cannot resume until the other is finished.

After rolling the older compost windrows, I took a temperature reading, one windrow had reached an internal temperature of 94 degrees (34 degrees C).  Too hot for any weed seeds or pathogens to survive.

Some of this compost will be applied in the fall to beds where next years root and fruit crops will be planted, the rest is for next spring.

As for this year's application, all of the bean, pea, and leaf crops are getting a double application of compost.  It's taken a couple of years to build up a decent supply of this amendment, and not soon enough.

I wrote in previous years about a suspected imbalance of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus in the field - root crops did very well, and fruit crops did poorly.  I seem to have corrected that with added application of rock phosphate in the past two years (last year's peppers did very well, and when I get them right, the roots are doing as good as ever).

However, the three macro nutrients are only a small part of soil fertility building.

Signs of high soil fertility:

Crumbly soil surface.  When the soil is wet here at Whitsend, the soil surface takes on a crumbly look, but when it dries it becomes flat and hard.

Earthworms.  A farm with very high fertility can have up to 100 earthworms in a cubic foot of soil. * Whitsend has much fewer (I've not done a formal count yet, the number varies in different parts of my field.  It is certainly less than 100 worms per cubic foot).

Soil structure.  A block of soil can have numerous cavities and tunnels built by worms, other insects, decayed roots of dandelions and such, and the action of broadforking.  Again, there are variations from one part of my field to another.

Water retention.  A fertile soil retains water much longer.  Within 48 hours of a heavy rainfall, my soil surface is dry, and within 96 hours, even the soil just below the surface is drying out.

These observations tell me that I have the macronutrients in balance, and now I have to bring out the  the fertility of the soil.

During my internship at Elmtree, I learned that Stinging Nettle was a plant that grew where there was a 'latent fertility'.  This plant grows vigorously at Whitsend.  The potential is in the ground, but needs to be worked out.

The answer for the time being is to begin adding more compost.  Now that my compost material is at a sufficient quantity, I can start doubling the applications.

It makes sense in hindsight.  When I first began to work this acreage, I removed a lot of quackgrass roots, which are very difficult to compost properly (I lost one of my compost windrows in my second year because of this).

This quackgrass was fertility locked away in a form that was not usable by me, and by tossing it into the hedgerow, I essentially removed it from the field without replenishing it.

Kind of like a physics equation about energy.

If

Whitsend Fertility (WF) = QGrass + Other growth (crops, other weeds, insects, fungi, etc...)

Where value of

Whitsend Fertility = 10
QGrass = 5
Other growth =  5

Then

WF (10) - QGrass (5) = Other Growth (5).


Yes, I know I'm no PhD, I understood math but didn't care for it and my science teachers were either nerds or bores and even the good one wasn't inspiring.  So I never learned the language.


But I like the concept of the equation.  It explains what I need to do...add as much compost (or more) as it takes to replace the amount of quackgrass that I removed.

Responsible farming is all about maintaining a balance.  And learning.


Talk to you next week, perhaps with some pictures.

Bob







* "Grasp the Nettle", Peter Proctor, Random House New Zealand, 1997, page 27.

Hey Folks:

First harvest is always a bit nerve racking.  Much of it is so routinized that it just happens. But there always a few little details that slip by.

This year was the need to hydro cool the leaves a little longer - I realised this during delivery, after seeing a few leaves look a bit wilty.

The new prep station is a pleasure to work in.  More shelf space, easier and less time consuming to set up, clean, and all tools and supplies within easy reach.

The station still requires some work, but I figure using it a few times will allow me to figure out how best to arrange shelves, cabinets, etc.


Cleaning the vegetables is far more time consuming than the actual harvest.

Selling food is all about presentation.  If it doesn't look good, the customer won't want to eat it right away, and then it looses its best qualities in the fridge.

Cleaning the produce provides an opportunity to retain fertility for the farm.  Soil from the plants is redirected back to the compost, water from the cleaning is drained back to the beds, and cuttings are also sent to the compost.


Onion (and garlic) roots are a great addition to the compost.  As well, soil that grew onions is great for conditioning the soil mix used for seed starting.

With a little practice, packing the food for delivery has become an efficient task on harvest days.  Iv'e tried several ways of packing to allow for a quick delivery, and gradually I am finding the best ways to pack it all up.

Here, I have places the garlic shoots in a crosshatch pattern so as to grab the three stalks for each customer.

Garlic scapes are ready for harvest when the scape reaches it's two curl stage.  About half of the scapes are ready for next week.

Scapes are the 'flowering' head of the plant.  If allowed to 'bloom', the garlic bulbs would shrivel up to provide the plant with he energy to create it's bulbils.

Garlic can be propagated from the bulbils, but it is a long term process.


Bulbils are not seeds in the usual sense, they are not pollinated and only carry the genetic material of the parent plant.

New varieties of garlic only occur by genetic accidents that are viable enough to continue to propagate.

Meanwhile, out in the field, the food keeps growing.  These cracks in the ground indicate that the potato stalk and leaf crown is about to emerge.

The young plants are very susceptible to potato beetles.  Keeping the row covers on helps, though the plants still have to be checked regularly for adults, larvae, and eggs.

The row covers also reduce the sunlight for the plant, which in turn causes the plant to put more energy into its leaves than its tubers.

Each year, I start taking the covers off earlier and earlier.  This may be one of the reasons why my yields are going up.

As for the beetles, they seem to prefer the onaways, so the first generation of the year goes to this variety first.  THat allows me to reduce their numbers by destroying their eggs.  Last year, this reduced almost the entire population in the field.

After the onaways were finished, the beatles then went to the nicotiana flowers.  There they remained.  the nicotiana was so vigorous that they just outgrew the beatles, and despite three rows of red chieftain being a dozen feet away, the beatles remained in the rock garden.

The first two successions of potato, the early 'Onaway' and the mid season 'Dakota Pearl' are starting to flower.

We are a couple of weeks away from harvesting the onaways!

I was astounded the first time I tried 'real potatoes'.  They have flavour!

Speaking of insects, I have been noticing something amiss this season after I transplanted the squash and cucumbers.  No cucumber beetles.  I have also noticed a distinct absence of cabbage moths.

I must be one of the few growers that would find a lack of bugs worrisome.

Until the other day I had only seen one frog and two toads.  Usually, there are quite a few more.

Two days ago I saw a red frog.  What's up?




This is an example of companion planting.  Here are the basil transplants settling into the tomato bed.

The row cover behind te plant reflects more light onto the tomatoes.  This is an unintended benefit.

Gives the thinking part of my brain some ideas for a few other light loving plants...

Everytime i mow (or harvest nitrogen for the compost), I always feel like the place looks less like a field of vegetables, and more like a farm.

So much to look forward to, so much to look after...

See you soon,

Bob

PS, yes this is a short blog this week, but I'm starting to tire out and should leave the farm alone and enjoy the rest of the week-end...

Update June 14th:

I have updated the 'This weeks harvest' page.

Very disappointed to see some of the first spinach plants starting to set seed heads almost two weeks before they ought to.  The plants are not big enough for a meaningful harvest.

I now have to decide if I should start harvesting the second round (planted a week later).

I assume that this is caused by the exceptional heat we've had this past few weeks.

Good news - I started cleaning out the rock garden and discovered that we have a fine crop of nicotiana flowers that have self seeded.  Also see that the opopeo flowers are starting to come up.

Talk to you soon,

Bob




Hey Everyone:

The delivery season is soon upon us.  A sure sign is the prep table taking it's place near the compost windrows.

This is the first stop for most of the produce coming out of the field.  Soil cleaned from the produce and culled vegetables are diverted back to the compost.

Then it is off to the prep station...




...which is almost finished.

The sidewall is the next addition, followed by a cabinet to keep prep tools and paperwork in.  The marker board (to track how much the field is producing per bed, and to keep track of requests) will get installed last.

This will be a big improvement over previous years.  It will double our counter space, keep the wind from disturbing the weigh scale, and provide a all in one place for storing harvest tools and supplies such as empty boxes, zip-lock bags, and burlap sacks.


For the first time in over a month, the hardening off shelter is starting to empty out.

Not a moment too soon, we had our first earwig in there nibbling on some kale sprouts.

Knowing they would inevitably arrive, I have an additional spot to harden off the plants.

The most vulnerable plants are being moved there - thyme and rosemary, lettuces, and cabbage family crops.





Many of these crops will be out in the field within a week.  Crops that are produced weekly, like the lettuce, will have to take up the new residence for a week.

During that time, some diatomaceous earth  will be the only food available for the bugs, thus rendering the shelter free for a couple more weeks.  I suspect I'll have to do this new routine a couple of times during the summer.

Earwigs are generally a beneficial insect in the field.  They consume organic matter, helping to break it down and or move it into the different layers of soil.

In the nursery, the only organic matter are the small plants.  

Speaking of small plants, our first couple of harvests are usually small, but this year seems to be exceptionally so (unless the lettuces and peas grow very fast in the next seven days!)

However, there is plenty to be optimistic about in the weeks following that.

Having just completed my twice annual financial snapshot, I decided it was time to take stock of what's out there.



The snow peas are just starting to flower. Probably in full flush in a week and a half.  I expect a few folks will get some peas next week, but probably not everyone.

Of course, as the peas will taper off in about three weeks, the customers who are missed during the first week of harvesting will get the last of the second flush of peas.







Radishes:  The 'Cherry Belle' radishes are nearing their maturity for the first week.  I have a second round on the way.

These younger radishes are still susceptible to flea beetle damage, hence the half covered bed.

I have a small quantity of seeds of 'Osterguss' radish.  This is a variety of german salad radish that I was curious about.

Let me know if you are interested, I'll be planting some by the end of the month.  They should be ready by fall.



Next to the radishes are the mustard greens.  From right to left mibuna (quite mild), Tokyo Bekana (somewhat peppery and hot-ish), and two rows of arugula.

Not sure why the mibuna is not as vigorous as the others, its north of the bekana so may have been a bit shaded by its quicker growing neighbour.

I'll give the option of either one of the three varieties or a blend.  First email , first serve.





Cress is a very quick grower.  The first year I tried it, it was a saviour on the first harvest day, filling in for a no show (can't recall what that was now).

It only grows in cool weather, and much prefers being in the shade, so there is only limited places for it in the field.

The first week or two are about the only times during the season I grow it.

It requires a lot of water, hence the soaker hose in the middle of the bed.

Here is one of the five spinach beds.  Still some inconsistency.

All the rows have germinated but some sections of this bed is producing better than others.

I'm  a little puzzled by this.  It may be that the larger plants germinated a couple of days earlier.

I'm going to harvest some of the crop next week, in an effort to give more space to the adjacent plants, this might spur some growth.

This is supposed to be a beet almost ready for planting.  It's supposed to be spherical.  I think the transplanting was a little too late, and the root was disturbed.

This will be a wait and see what happens, we may have some tasty (but oddly shaped) roots soon.  Assuming they size up.  If not, there are two more beds seeded and just starting to sprout.








You may recall my concerns about the garlic earlier this season.  I do have a tendency to think in worst case scenarios sometimes.

So far, the crop appears not to have been flooded by too much water.

We'll know when the time comes to pull the plants (I'll be doing a couple of test pulls in a week or so).

There has been some leek moth damage, but only a couple of plants have really suffered.

Here is a first for Whitsend - Rhubarb.  If you're with us for the long haul, this will be something to look forward to in about two years.  These were started from seed and so should take a year less than when propagated from a root.

Carrots carrots carrots!  I have several beds of these in various stages of growth.  Most of our carrots are orange this season, I reserved the colored carrots for the open house bed.

If no-one shows up at that event, then the customers will get orange and colored carrots.

Another success story are the parsnips.  A notoriously difficult crops to grow.  I think we have almost an entire bed, so at least everyone will get a meal's worth if not two or three.

These are the zinnias, about twice as many plants as last year.  I added a second color this year in case anyone finds these monotonous.

Other flowers that are doing well are the primroses.  They are a biennial which was planted last year and should be flowering fairly soon.   The oppopeo's have started to self seed and will soon tower over the rock garden.

Sage, thyme, and lemon balm were planted in abundance this year.  The oregano survived the winter and is thriving.




Two beds (of five total) of kidney beans.  In these beds, not a single plant lost to mice.


I had the row covers down tight, though the pants didn't appreciate it and were struggling to grow for the first week.

Now that their vulnerable period is over, the plants are out into the sun and growing to fruition, which will likely be late august.  At that time, they will be harvested and hung in the barn to cure.

They will probably be among the last deliveries of the year.

Speaking of mice, I received a tip from Dick about setting up the electric fence.

He pointed out that if the animal hit two lines at once, it would short the charge and cause little or no deterrent to the intruder.

We disconnected the middle line and attached it to the ground.  This will make stealing your food very difficult.

Protecting the food from damage is an ongoing task here at the farm.



This year is the earliest I have started coriander.

More folks seem to be catching on to this essential flavour in the kitchen.

I wouldn't think of making a pasta sauce without either it or it's cousin parsley.

Speaking of which, I have transplanted more so far this year than the combined total from last year.(we lost a lot of parsley in the hardening off shelter last year as well - I'm so glad I took the time to make those little improvements back in the spring!

This is the first of two beds of chard.  I intended to do a second bed for the fall.

When planting these in the nursery, the first round germinated very poorly, and the second round overheated in the hardening off shelter.

I panicked and over compensated.  We'll have two beds for most of the season.  Probably too much, but a good thing for those of you who will want extra.

If that is still too much, the pigs will be more than happy to take the surplus.  They love it!

They're here!  The colorado potato beatle.

Each day, the plants will get checked for these insects.  Every three or four days, the bottom side of the leaves will get thoroughly checked for the little clusters of hidden eggs.

I grew three beds of the early onaway potatoes. Two of these beds are covered with row cover. The third bed is left exposed, providing the beatles with a place to gather - easier for me to find.

I still need to check the covered beds, as these insects do manage to get under the covers.

These are the Dakota Pearls, the second round due in late July.

I leave them uncovered, the beatles always go to the Onaways first.

I have to make decisions such as this as I only have a limited amount of row cover to work with.

Besides, the tubers will grow better in the full sunlight.  After all, the purpose is to grow food, not control insects.




The moskvich tomatoes were not affected at all by the frost.  They are growing very well.


Moskvich is a russian variety, known for it's resistance to cold weather.

Other than gritmire's pride, moskvich is my favorite tomato.  I have to admire someone who earned the surname 'Gritmire'.

I'll discuss the basket weave method for staking produce in a future post.  It is simple and very economical - easily adapted to the garden.



We lost a couple of lime green tomatoes to the frost, and a couple to the mice.

This was fortunate, as I needed to place the hungarian black peppers somewhere away from the other peppers so as to save the seed.

The lost lime greens provided that spot.

These tomatoes are interplanted with green onions.  THis improves the soil health of the bed, allium family crops are a great soil conditioner.





This is a view of the pac choi in their row cover tunnel.

Pac choi and tatsoi are Brassica (Cabbage) family plants.  They are quite vulnerable to many insects that are otherwise fairly harmless - flea beatles, earwigs, and cabbage moths devour these even after the plants are mature (in most cases, these insects only damage seedlings or do aesthetic damage, such as the holes in arugula leaves.

Snails and slugs eat these up as well.
With most other crops, slugs usually prefer the withered outer leaves, such as on lettuce.


Squash family crops are also vulnerable at an early stage of their life.

After a week or two settling in, almost nothing except the end of the season will finish them.

Especially this zuchini, the variety dunja.  I planted a new zuke called goldy this year, but still had four dunja seeds left over.  Not wanting to waste them, I decided to start a few plants - besides, I had no idea what to expect from the new variety, and if they didn't work out, I knew I could count on dunja to produce a considerable quantity of fruit.

In the event that this plant needs to be removed from the premises, I placed it in a spot near the gate.  To understand fully what I am getting at, sift through the posts from late summer 2013, when my intern Randy and I decided that an entire bed of dunja zucchinis had to be removed.  This was accomplished with several scratches, one cut, a sliced irrigation line, a bunch of stepped upon turnips, and discouraging words...the plant looks harmless now!

The fennel continues to grow it's enormous tap root with nothing more than a couple of leaves to show for it's efforts.

Fennel is a difficult plant to get started.  It's one of my favourite foods.  Very versatile in the kitchen - all of it is edible.

The bulb may be cooked (try wedges of it on a shish kabob or baked with fish), cued,  or eaten raw, the leaves add a hint of licorice to salads and soup, and the stems may be cooked into sauces for an alternative to celery.




There's a lot of other plants out there that were not caught on camera - brussels sprouts, rutabaga, turnips, dill, celtuce, orca beans, basil...

I need to quit writing and put the farm away for a while.

Talk to you very soon.

Bob

Some new neighbours have moved in.

These are some of Dick's cattle, one of two herds of seven animals each.

They spend a lot of time watching me.

If you are interested in purchasing some beef, send me your contact and I will forward it to Dick (Google Littledown Farm for more info).  I think he sells by the half or whole cow, but best to ask him directly to make sure.

On the way home, I observed some interesting weather phenomena just down the road from the farm.

Same idea as a rainbow, but shaped more like a curtain.