Hello Everyone:
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No spinach - I had beds prepared for this crop but then the temperature went way up and the rainy forecast either evaporated or passsed by to the south of us. I opted to not waste my time or seeds, the spinach would likely not have germintated well.
All crops require these macro-nutrients, though potassium is especially important for sizing up roots.
Most soils - sand, silt and clay (and a combination of all three, loam) are made of finely ground rock. Muck soil is the result of marshes, ponds, etc. being drained naturally or otherwise, leaving a residue of decayed plant and animal matter behind.
I have struggled to find much information on muck soil, aside from what I already knew: it is high in nitrogen, is heavy, comparable to clay soil in this respect, and very fragile (suceptible to erosion if worked too hard).
I've spoken with my farm mentors about this (I still call them my mentors despite being more akin to colleagues by now) and aside from a few suggestions that have not panned out, they have not been able to provide any more ideas than I have.
The soil here compacts very easily. I am still trying to determine if this is a natural condition, or if my soil is lacking in organic matter. I had originally assumed the latter and over the past two seasons have added as much compost, grass clippings, straw, autumn leaves, ash, greensand and rock phosphate to the beds as I can afford. In spite of that, activities such as harvesting potatoes or cleaning the beds after harvest still takes three times longer than it ought to. This is time better spent doing everything else required to build up our farm.
When possible, I have also been using cover crops more intensely, such as the former fingerling beds shown here.
After the beds were cleaned up, I sowed oats, buckwheat, and a small quantity of peas to the beds, with the intention of letting them frost kill later in the fall. The greenery will flatten out onto the bed surface (providing protection against erosion and green manure to work into the soil next spreing) and the roots will decay over the winter, softening the soil for when it is worked in the spring as well.
This has shown some promise in the past, though the affect seems short lived. For season long crops such as chard or tomatoes, there is no time for establishing a cover crop.
Next year, I will experiment with planting buckwheat arond the edges of the beds, cutting them back before they shade out the vegetable crop.
We aslo have a small sand pit on our farm; I'll try using more of that in our soil to help loosen it up.
Until then, I'll try scouring the internet using whatever key words I can think of to find the info I don't have, and trying to contact farmers in regions with muck soil such as Orillia and Barrie.
Work never ceases. If the farm is going to expand it's customer base next year (and it must if I am to attempt hiring someone) then new ground must be broken.
This is the next field to be plowed. The first step is to cut back the grass. Usually easily done with a tractor (which I do not have) or a brush cutter (which I can rent but the ground is too uneven to push an implement ofthat weight across).
So the only alternative is scythe or line trimming. I am not profficient enough to do all of this with a scythe (though I am forcing myself to do some for practice), so the line trimmer it is. I have questioned my sanity but there are no other options...
Far more than gardening goes into your food!
It's light out, and the repair store is opening soon (I have to pick up my line trimmer as it gave up part way into the work), so time to hit the road.
Talk to you soon...